Big brake kit clearance.
Measure your calipers, print a cut-out template to hold inside a wheel, or send us your readings and name a wheel for us to check. Free, no signup.
Measure the caliper.
Five measurements, A to E, front and rear, with the wheel off. A rule and a straightedge are all it takes. A is what the back of the spokes has to clear, and B plus C is what the inside of the barrel has to clear.
- AHub face to caliper face
- From the hub mounting face, the flat face the wheel bolts against, out to the outer face of the caliper. Lay a straightedge across the caliper face and measure back to the hub face. If the caliper face sits behind the hub face, tick "behind".
- BHub centre to the caliper's lower edge
- Measure from the edge of the hub spigot (the raised ring in the middle) to the caliper's lower edge, then add half the spigot diameter.
- COn to the caliper's outermost point
- From the lower edge to the top of the caliper. B and C together are hub centre to the top of the caliper.
- DEThe chamfer on the top outboard corner
- Its height (D) and width (E). Leave them blank if the corner is square.
Count everything on the caliper: bleed nipples, brake line fittings, bridge bolts and badges. A caliper with more steps than the drawing can take extra readings in step 2. Car on axle stands or a lift, never on a jack alone.
Print at 100% or "actual size", with page scaling off. The bar at the top must measure 100 mm before you trust anything else on the page.
Make your wheel-fit templates.
Type in A to E from your sheet, front and rear. Each axle becomes a true-scale card to print, glue to card and cut out, with the caliper, rotor and hub drawn, a spacer foot and a 100 mm bar. The same numbers go with your check in step 3.
- Print at 100% and check the bar measures 100 mm.
- Glue the print to thin card and cut along the dashed line. Fitting a spacer? Leave the spacer foot on and cut it at the line for the spacer's thickness.
- Lay the wheel face down on something soft. Stand the card on the wheel's mounting face, the flat face that bolts to the hub, with its corner in the middle of the centre bore.
- Turn the card slowly through a full circle. Anything touching it means no fit. Touching the back of a spoke? A spacer may give the room. Touching the inside of the barrel? A spacer will not.
- Stick-on balance weights sit right where the caliper passes, so allow room for them. Then trial fit the wheel and turn it by hand before the car is driven.
Want a PDF? Print, then choose "Save as PDF" as the printer. It keeps the true size.
Ask us to check a wheel.
Send your readings and a few photos, name the wheel you want, and we check it against your kit by hand. Free, with a reply by email, usually within one working day.
Email us your readings. Send your A to E measurements, front and rear (or a photo of the filled-in sheet), a few photos (the caliper straight on, from the side with a tape measure in shot, the hub with the wheel off, and the kit box or label), the brake kit, and the wheel you want with its size and offset, to [email protected]. We check it against your kit by hand and reply by email.
Questions about the tool.
Will the template print at the right size?
What if the caliper face sits behind the hub face?
How much clearance should I keep?
Can a spacer fix a big brake kit that touches the wheel?
Is the wheel check really free?
Why do you keep the measurements?
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Free tool by AIWheelTech